Archives de la catégorie ‘Uncategorized’

La main dans la main, Grande Roche (Dévoluy), 7a+ 520m, ED+

7a obligatoire, 6c engagé, plaquettes inox 8mm, équipé très espacé.

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L13 : 6b+, 40m

Un grand merci aux ouvreurs pour cet énorme travail de nettoyage. C’est vraiment une belle voie de caractère, il faut être bien dans le niveau technique mais aussi savoir bien grimper à vue dans un rocher difficile à lire et surtout engager au-dessus des points de 8mm sans trop savoir où est le suivant. D’ailleurs on a perdu au moins 1h en cumulé à chercher certaines plaquettes cachées. Heureusement qu’elles brillent encore bien mais dans quelques années quand elles seront ternies çà sera plus difficile…

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Les spits de 8mm utilisés

 

Ça en fait une voie bien exigeante de ce point de vue, un peu comme la balade d’un bienheureux mais en plus dur. On a encore bien purgé mais globalement le rocher est correct pour qqun qui a l’habitude du rocher montagne (un falaisiste se fera bien peur). Bon, certaines longueurs sont bien pourries mais là on ne peut rien y faire tellement il y en a. En bref, une voie à recommander pour les plus téméraires !

DSC_9397_Snapseed

 

Hissage de sac sans trop de soucis. Prendre 14 dégaines dont 3 rallonges. On a mis 9h sans trop se speeder, il faut pas mal de temps pour trouver certaines plaquettes.

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Histoire d’O

Publié: 07/14/2017 dans Uncategorized

Histoire d’O
Aiguilles d’Arves

Encore un chef d’œuvre du Maitre Mussatto !

Histoire-dO16

(suite…)

Entre deux mondes

Gramusset (Aravis), 2700m

l1-7a-gaetan-2

140m 7c max. 7a oblig.

Face Sud-Ouest, soleil à 11h en été

Ouverture du bas en Août et Septembre 2010 par Yann Borgnet et Kévin Peyre

Accès et approche:

acces-et-approche

Accès et approche pour la paroie de Gramusset

Topo des ouvreurs:

topo

Matériel:
Corde à simple de 50m
Corde de hissage 50m
10 dégaines
Friends petit à moyen (C4 0,3 au 1)

L1 40m 7a+ Après un départ technique et peu prisu on rejoint une bonne écaille (éventuellement une place pour un friend moyen) avec un spit au-dessus. Monter droit au-dessus de ce spit avec des trous que l’on trouve au dernier moment quand on a la tête devant pour rejoindre un spit caché dans l’axe du précédent. Ensuite çà déroule jusqu’au relais (traverser à droite), rocher dément.

L2 25m 7c Longueur méga classe et bien soutenue, un pas technique au premier point puis dans un bombé où il faut aller chercher bien loin une petite prise cachée à droite et une bonne section au niveau de la cordelette qui passe tout droit mais un peu plus facile tout à gauche. Relais dans une niche.

l2-7c

L2 7c

L3 25m 7c Longueur d’anthologie ! Départ sympa jusqu’au toit puis bien physique, faire crochet par la gauche après le spit sous le premier petit toit puis traverser à droite sous le toit pour rejoindre un gros bac au bord du toit, spit caché à ce niveau (possible de compléter par des petits et moyen friends). Ensuite rétablissement où il faut encore avoir de la conti pour tenir les petites prises. Fin dans un super mur sculpté. Relais sur une bonne vire.

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L4 20m 6b+ Départ pas évident et peu logique droit au-dessus du relais. Quelques friends permettent de compléter l’équipement en place.

L5 25m 6c+ Super mur sculpté avec un pas dans le bombé final. Relais en cordelettes bien haut à droite (relais de Zauberberg)

Descente en 4 rappel à partir du dernier relais dans Zauberberg.

l1-7a-gaetan-1

Y’a pas que l’accu dans la vie

Croix des têtes
350m, 7b+ max, 7a obl.

face

La face !

 

Mes commentaires :
Voie répétée avec Pack le 27 août 2016 en 9h.
Magnifique itinéraire évident, les premières longueurs sont géniales dans bon rocher légèrement déversant qui se protège bien. L5 pas démente dans un rocher sale et herbeux. Mention spéciale à L8, 50m en 7a+ où il faut savoir grimper en dalle entre les points ! L10 n’est vraiment pas évidente à protéger et en plus dans un rocher pas top top, il faut vraiment arriver là pas trop fatigué et avoir une très bonne expérience de Trad. en calcaire.
En résumé une voie démente de Trad. à la croix des têtes pour grimpeur expérimenté, à faire !!

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R1

Infos :
Ouverture du bas les 16 juillet et 1er août 2014 par Sylvain et Vincent Thiabaud. Leur topo ici: http://www.jegrimpe.com/topos/CDT_Accu.pdf
Voie à compléter avec friends.
Face Sud-Ouest à 2000m, soleil à 13h en été
La voie suit des lignes de fissures dans la face, attendre plusieurs jours de beau temps successifs avant d’y aller. La voie n’est pas équipée pour la descente en rappel mais cela se fait, et la proximité avec « Fiesta pour les avant-bras » doit permettre de jongler pour redescendre au mieux.

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I’ve been to the outdoor show these last days, from 13th to 16th of July 2016

logo

So I have collected here some new cool stuff in my opinion, I probably missed some and some might be also not so new.

Polartec-Alpha-ktmart_vn 0904644346 ktmart
Polartec Alpha is used on light jacket by most of apparel brands. This fabric from 2012 is constituted by low density fibers between air permeable woven layers that creates a more efficient fabric for regulating warmth and transferring moisture.

illus_polartec_alpha

This advancement increases thermal adaptability in changing conditions and different phases of physical activity.

Dyneema is more and more used for backpack since last year like Hyperlite mountain gear, CiloGear,… 5 times stronger than 1000D Cordura and waterproof it has obvious advantages, but however not stretchable and more expensive… And what about breathable dyneema material for clothes?

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Last week, amazing dry-tooling routes have been sent without Yaniros, called “D.T.S. way”. D13+ by Marianne and D15 by Tom.

AND the 21st of February I also sent this D15, A line above the sky, in Dolomites! Without Yaniros of course!!

NO FIGURE FOUR logo finalWhen I talk about dry-tooling with people, I am often asked that same bemused question:  « Why do French climbers not use at all Yaniros?” (also called “figure 4”- see below). At the same time, I can’t help but to hear that same question echo in my head like « Why are the French stupid enough not to use Yaniros? » and so I feel like I have to enter into a detailed and well-argued answer.

1

Gaetan in the crux of the route « No Figure 4 » at Usine. Project!

But let’s have a closer look at it.

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Red Bull White cliff 2015

Red Bull White cliff 2015

Finally I could join this event! Last year 2014 I was also invited to this private competition but it was in the same time as the French ice climbing team selection.

The first part to the roof for the qualification.

The first part to the roof for the qualification.

Red Bull White cliffs is a big competition in UK on a chalk sea cliff of the island of Wight (South UK), the 10 best dry-toolers in the world were invited (suite…)

New projects

Publié: 08/05/2015 dans Uncategorized

Alright! After setting up the 2014 Chinese dry-tooling championship in their headquarter, Kailas have picked me up for this upcoming year of pushing hard. I am looking forward to representing such an extensive company. They carry everything one would need to reach summits, no matter how big or small. Kailas, has given me the opportunity to help me for my next projects:

Red Bull White CliffsRed Bull White Cliffs 

Crane creuxCrane Creux, dry-tooling multipitch (D13, 200m)

Génération dryGeneration dry – the movie – https://www.facebook.com/generationdry 

Hunger GameHunger Game, opening mixed route (D10/M10/WI6, 250m)

Kailas
Check them out here http://kailasgears.com/ 

I’ll keep you guys posted on the excitement and new projects that I am about to embark on for the winter 2015/2016…

Photo : Julien Ferrandez  http://julienferrandez.com/

Photo : Julien Ferrandez
http://julienferrandez.com/

Nothing Like Being Home!

(suite…)

DISPONIBLE EN VOD POUR 3euros
https://www.reelhouse.org/pierre.chauffour/generation-dry 


<p><a href= »https://vimeo.com/129096772″>GENERATION DRY – TRAILER</a> from <a href= »https://vimeo.com/pierrechauffour »>Pierre Chauffour</a> on <a href= »https://vimeo.com »>Vimeo</a&gt;.</p>

2016-Generation-Dry-3

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Climbing in Greece

Publié: 12/08/2014 dans Uncategorized

Climbing in Greece
the new destination

Tersanas cave (Crete)

Tersanas cave (Crete)

I’ve been in Greece many times since many years, climbing around Athens, Peloponnesus and Crete. I can tell you that it will be in the next year the place in Europe to climb! You can easily spend 3 weeks there for climbing and visiting (archeological sites and seaside). In Greece there are more than 3000 routes, the rock is incredibly high quality and not polished generally. Here you can also climb all-year around and it is easy and cheap to reach.

Greek climbing map

Greek climbing map

If you like to explore the rest of Greece besides the climbers’ paradise of Kalymnos, you will find your pleasure on the continent. Since November 2014, the first Greek climbing guidebook is published in English with a short selection of the best place everywhere in the country. It is an incredible job; this guidebook is very precise, very looking-good, with nice pictures and has everything. You can purchase it here: http://climbgreece.com/guidebook/ and get more inspiration here on Facebook : https://www.facebook.com/climbgreece

Greek climbing guide

Greek climbing guide

I won’t give too much details because the guidebook is here for that (accommodation, acces, history, visits, etc…), here there are my favorite places:

  • Chaos
    One hour south to Athens, an incredible amphitheater, the place and the rock have to be visited! Crimps on a red wall, technical climbing. Shadow in the afternoon. 25 routes from 7a to 8c.
Xaos

Xaos

  • Mavrosouvala
    THE cliff to climb around Athens! Awesome routes with many tufas in a big overhanging wall on Kalymnos-style rock. Shadow in the morning. 40 routes from 6a to projects.
Mavrosouvala

Mavrosouvala : Left, Argyro flying in Super Nova, 8b Center, Stavros in Protaprilia, 7a+

  • Spilia Daveli
    Up on the Pedeli mountain, one of the three mountains (1000m) around Athens. Marble rock (ancient Acropolis stone-pit), not so slippery due to sand-like surface friction. A lot of difficult cracks and technical walls. Shadow in the afternoon. 30 routes (30m) from 5c to 8c.
Spilia Daveli

Spilia Daveli

Pedeli

Pedeli : Gaetan on En Lefko, 7c

  • Leonidio
    There is many cliffs around this town, lots of new routes since 2 years with thus new perfect rock. My favorites sectors are:
    – Elona, an unbelievable impressive 60m overhanging wall with tufas, 10 routes from 7b to project.

    Elona

    Elona

    HADA, a huge red overhanging wall in an isolated gorge, very nice place with very good routes. You can climb while raining even after 2 days raining it is still dry. 40 routes from 6a to project.

    XADA

    XADA

    XADA wall

    HADA wall : Kostas in HADA, 7b+

    Twin caves, a very nice cave with amazing tufas ! 35 routes from 6a to project.

    Twin caves

    Twin caves

    Balcony, a high slightly overhanging wall on a perfect rock with a great view over the valley. 20 routes from 6c to 8a.

    Balcony

    Balcony : Thanasis with the sunset in Hapato, 7b+

    Balcony left

    Balcony left : Left, Kostas in Kanena « FA » ya ton mikro, 7c. Center, Argyro in Hapatro, 7b+

  • Lagada
    Close to Sparta (Peloponnesus) this place is a paradise; it is on the way to Nedousa if you come from Leonidio. In a very beautiful and quiet valley, with a fast approach you will find a perfect rock from slabs to roof with tufas ! 60 routes (30m) from 5c to 8b.
Lagada

Lagada, Aloni sector

Lagada

Lagada Petsanes sector : Fani in This is Sparta, 7c

  • Nedousa
    Nedousa is a pretty place for climbing and close to the nice city of Kalamata. There is many cliffs, very different each other, from crimpy slabs to tufas roofs. The valley of Nedousa is very quiet and the orientations of the sectors allow to climb all the day in the shadow or sun. I recommend the sector : Riza, Tzerani, Ai Stratigos. 70 routes with these 3 main sectors from 5b to 8b.
Nedousa (tou koulouri h riza)

Nedousa (Riza)

Nedousa (Ai Stratigos)

Nedousa (Ai Stratigos)

  • Alepochori
    A 30m wall full of tufas and pocket, incredible! Shadow in the morning. 30 routes from 6a to 8b.
Alepochori

Alepochori

Alepochori climbing

Alepochori climbing

Alepochori wall

Alepochori wall

  • Pili
    Close to Meteora this is an awesome sport climbing cliff. This cliff is located is a gorge with big trees where you belay almost in the river-bed. The routes are slight overhanging with big holds and tufas.60 routes (30m) from 6a to 8b.
Pili

Pili

  • Agio Farango (Crete)
    The famous gorge with 200 routes, most of them from 6a to 7c. Close to the sea, climbing in the shadow or in the sun all the day (depending on the side of the gorge you climb) on a perfect rock.
Agio Farago 1

Agio Farago 1

Agio Farago 2

Agio Farago 2

Agio Farago 3

Agio Farago 3

  • Plakias (Crete)
    A great huge vertical wall as you has never seen. 25 routes from 6a to 8a.
Plakias

Plakias

Plakias climbing

Plakias : Minotravros, 7b+

  • ****** Tersanas cave (Crete) ******
    Stayed secret for many years, you understand why when you see what is it exactly. 50m high, 80m wide and 50m deep!!! There is no word to explain how it is unreal, just come and check it out. The biggest cave ever seen!! 20 routes from 6a to 8b.

    Tersanas cave 1

    Tersanas cave : Fani in Ski the shit out of it, 7b

    Tersanas cave 2

    Tersanas cave : Gaetan in Knock out, 8a

    Tersanas cave (view from inside...)

    Tersanas cave (view from inside…)

Multipitches :

Greece is not the country for multipitches but it has the famous rock of Meteora that must be visited at least once in a climber’s life. There are other places with less multipitches but with amazing view!

  • Meteora
    It is a place that every climber should have to go. The amazing towers of conglomerate rock are so beautiful with the monasteries! Very high and impressive the climbing style is special but funny on these stones; there are also a lot of cracks where you will need friends and nuts for protections. At least 20 multipitches (120m to 300m) “well” bolted on “good” rock. From 5a to 7c.
Meteora panorama

Meteora panorama

Fani in L2 of Action direct, 6c

Fani in L2 of Action direct, 6c

  • Varasova
    A very nice wall above the beach. Limestone rock with very good friction, slabs and vertical wall. 25 sport-climbing routes nearby. 10 multipitches (120m to 500m) from 5a to 7b.

    Varasova

    Varasova

  • Leonidio
    Big red wall above the valley with incredible rock-friction. (6 multipitches, 250m)

    Leonidio

    Leonidio

  • Symi/Anafi
    Two island with big wall which are worthwhile. (6 multipitches, 250 to 450m).

    Anafi

    Anaf

    Symi

    Symi

More pictures :

Tersanas cave, guidebook

Tersanas cave, guidebook

Tersanas cave

Tersanas cave

Meteora #3

Photos : Nikos Hadjis mountainguide.gr

Photos : Nikos Hadjis mountainguide.gr

Photos : Nikos Hadjis mountainguide.gr

Gaetan, 05/2013

Gaetan, 05/2013

Gaetan, 05/2013

2013-05-02_12-10-31_HDR

Fani in L2 of action direct, 6c

Fani in L3 of action direct, 6b

Fani in L1 of action direct, 6a+

The black line, Action direct route

Chaos cliff, Antonis in Tremoulo, 7c+

Chaos cliff, Antonis in Tremoulo, 7c+ (photo : facebook.com/PERIKLISPHOTOGRAPHY)

Chaos cliff, Katerina in the warm up route, Delice, 7a+

Chaos cliff, Katerina in the warm up route, Delice, 7a+

Daveli cliff above Athens (facebook.com/PERIKLISPHOTOGRAPHY)

Daveli cliff above Athens (facebook.com/PERIKLISPHOTOGRAPHY)

Spilia Daveli, Argyro in Kopsi Korre, 7a+

Spilia Daveli, Argyro in Kopsi Korre, 7a+

Spilia Daveli, Argyro in Au revoir, 8b+

Spilia Daveli, Argyro in Au revoir, 8b+

Spilia Daveli, Argyro in Au revoir, 8b+

Spilia Daveli, Argyro in Au revoir, 8b+

I wish to thanks all my greek friends to the warm welcome when I come in Greece : Fani Kousipetkou, Argyro Papathanasiou, Constantinos Vrohidis, Katerina Touriki, Aris Theodoropoulos, Stavros Psirropoulos, Antonis Anifantakis, Periklis Ripis, Victor Sebros and many others !
Thanks to the locals for guiding me to discover all these many crazy new places : Thanasis Sotir, Nikos Hadjis, Giannis Metaxotos, Manolis Kampourakis, Aris Mavromatis