Y’a pas que l’accu dans la vie

Croix des têtes
350m, 7b+ max, 7a obl.

La face !

Mes commentaires :
Voie répétée avec Pack le 27 août 2016 en 9h.
Magnifique itinéraire évident, les premières longueurs sont géniales dans bon rocher légèrement déversant qui se protège bien. L5 pas démente dans un rocher sale et herbeux. Mention spéciale à L8, 50m en 7a+ où il faut savoir grimper en dalle entre les points ! L10 n’est vraiment pas évidente à protéger et en plus dans un rocher pas top top, il faut vraiment arriver là pas trop fatigué et avoir une très bonne expérience de Trad. en calcaire.
En résumé une voie démente de Trad. à la croix des têtes pour grimpeur expérimenté, à faire !!

R1

Infos :
Ouverture du bas les 16 juillet et 1er août 2014 par Sylvain et Vincent Thiabaud. Leur topo ici: http://www.jegrimpe.com/topos/CDT_Accu.pdf
Voie à compléter avec friends.
Face Sud-Ouest à 2000m, soleil à 13h en été
La voie suit des lignes de fissures dans la face, attendre plusieurs jours de beau temps successifs avant d’y aller. La voie n’est pas équipée pour la descente en rappel mais cela se fait, et la proximité avec « Fiesta pour les avant-bras » doit permettre de jongler pour redescendre au mieux.

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I’ve been to the outdoor show these last days, from 13^th to 16^th of July 2016

So I have collected here some new cool stuff in my opinion, I probably missed some and some might be also not so new.

– Polartec Alpha is used on light jacket by most of apparel brands. This fabric from 2012 is constituted by low density fibers between air permeable woven layers that creates a more efficient fabric for regulating warmth and transferring moisture.

This advancement increases thermal adaptability in changing conditions and different phases of physical activity.

– Dyneema is more and more used for backpack since last year like Hyperlite mountain gear, CiloGear,… 5 times stronger than 1000D Cordura and waterproof it has obvious advantages, but however not stretchable and more expensive… And what about breathable dyneema material for clothes?

Lire la suite »

Last week, amazing dry-tooling routes have been sent without Yaniros, called “D.T.S. way”. D13+ by Marianne and D15 by Tom.

AND the 21st of February 2016 I also sent this D15, A line above the sky, in Dolomites! Without Yaniros of course!!

AND THEN taking the advantage of this great shape and endurance, one month later I sent Iron Man in Eptingen! Without Yaniros of course!! Way more difficult for me than A line above the sky… It took me 7 tries to make it to the chain, so hard down-climb moves and poor feet on the roof with a random move at the end of this roof!

When I talk about dry-tooling with people, I am often asked that same bemused question:  « Why do French climbers not use at all Yaniros?” (also called “figure 4”- see below). At the same time, I can’t help but to hear that same question echo in my head like « Why are the French stupid enough not to use Yaniros? » and so I feel like I have to enter into a detailed and well-argued answer.

Gaetan in the crux of the route « No Figure 4 » at Usine. Project!

But let’s have a closer look at it.

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Red Bull White cliff 2015

Finally I could join this event! Last year 2014 I was also invited to this private competition but it was in the same time as the French ice climbing team selection.

The first part to the roof for the qualification.

Red Bull White cliffs is a big competition in UK on a chalk sea cliff of the island of Wight (South UK), the 10 best dry-toolers in the world were invited Lire la suite »

Alright! After setting up the 2014 Chinese dry-tooling championship in their headquarter, Kailas have picked me up for this upcoming year of pushing hard. I am looking forward to representing such an extensive company. They carry everything one would need to reach summits, no matter how big or small. Kailas, has given me the opportunity to help me for my next projects:

Red Bull White Cliffs 

Crane Creux, dry-tooling multipitch (D13, 200m)

Generation dry – the movie – https://www.facebook.com/generationdry 

Hunger Game, opening mixed route (D10/M10/WI6, 250m)

Check them out here http://kailasgears.com/ 

I’ll keep you guys posted on the excitement and new projects that I am about to embark on for the winter 2015/2016…

Photo : Julien Ferrandez
http://julienferrandez.com/

Nothing Like Being Home!

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Climbing in Greece
the new destination

Tersanas cave (Crete)

I’ve been in Greece many times since many years, climbing around Athens, Peloponnesus and Crete. I can tell you that it will be in the next year the place in Europe to climb! You can easily spend 3 weeks there for climbing and visiting (archeological sites and seaside). In Greece there are more than 3000 routes, the rock is incredibly high quality and not polished generally. Here you can also climb all-year around and it is easy and cheap to reach.

Greek climbing map

If you like to explore the rest of Greece besides the climbers’ paradise of Kalymnos, you will find your pleasure on the continent. Since November 2014, the first Greek climbing guidebook is published in English with a short selection of the best place everywhere in the country. It is an incredible job; this guidebook is very precise, very looking-good, with nice pictures and has everything. You can purchase it here: http://climbgreece.com/guidebook/ and get more inspiration here on Facebook : https://www.facebook.com/climbgreece

Greek climbing guide

I won’t give too much details because the guidebook is here for that (accommodation, acces, history, visits, etc…), here there are my favorite places:

• Chaos
  One hour south to Athens, an incredible amphitheater, the place and the rock have to be visited! Crimps on a red wall, technical climbing. Shadow in the afternoon. 25 routes from 7a to 8c.

Xaos

• Mavrosouvala
  THE cliff to climb around Athens! Awesome routes with many tufas in a big overhanging wall on Kalymnos-style rock. Shadow in the morning. 40 routes from 6a to projects.

Mavrosouvala : Left, Argyro flying in Super Nova, 8b Center, Stavros in Protaprilia, 7a+

• Spilia Daveli
  Up on the Pedeli mountain, one of the three mountains (1000m) around Athens. Marble rock (ancient Acropolis stone-pit), not so slippery due to sand-like surface friction. A lot of difficult cracks and technical walls. Shadow in the afternoon. 30 routes (30m) from 5c to 8c.

Spilia Daveli

Pedeli : Gaetan on En Lefko, 7c

• Leonidio
  There is many cliffs around this town, lots of new routes since 2 years with thus new perfect rock. My favorites sectors are:
  – Elona, an unbelievable impressive 60m overhanging wall with tufas, 10 routes from 7b to project.
  

  Elona

  – HADA, a huge red overhanging wall in an isolated gorge, very nice place with very good routes. You can climb while raining even after 2 days raining it is still dry. 40 routes from 6a to project.

  

  XADA

  

  HADA wall : Kostas in HADA, 7b+

  – Twin caves, a very nice cave with amazing tufas ! 35 routes from 6a to project.

  

  Twin caves

  – Balcony, a high slightly overhanging wall on a perfect rock with a great view over the valley. 20 routes from 6c to 8a.

  

  Balcony : Thanasis with the sunset in Hapato, 7b+

  

  Balcony left : Left, Kostas in Kanena « FA » ya ton mikro, 7c. Center, Argyro in Hapatro, 7b+

• Lagada
  Close to Sparta (Peloponnesus) this place is a paradise; it is on the way to Nedousa if you come from Leonidio. In a very beautiful and quiet valley, with a fast approach you will find a perfect rock from slabs to roof with tufas ! 60 routes (30m) from 5c to 8b.

Lagada, Aloni sector

Lagada Petsanes sector : Fani in This is Sparta, 7c

• Nedousa
  Nedousa is a pretty place for climbing and close to the nice city of Kalamata. There is many cliffs, very different each other, from crimpy slabs to tufas roofs. The valley of Nedousa is very quiet and the orientations of the sectors allow to climb all the day in the shadow or sun. I recommend the sector : Riza, Tzerani, Ai Stratigos. 70 routes with these 3 main sectors from 5b to 8b.

Nedousa (Riza)

Nedousa (Ai Stratigos)

• Alepochori
  A 30m wall full of tufas and pocket, incredible! Shadow in the morning. 30 routes from 6a to 8b.

Alepochori

Alepochori climbing

Alepochori wall

• Pili
  Close to Meteora this is an awesome sport climbing cliff. This cliff is located is a gorge with big trees where you belay almost in the river-bed. The routes are slight overhanging with big holds and tufas.60 routes (30m) from 6a to 8b.

Pili

• Agio Farango (Crete)
  The famous gorge with 200 routes, most of them from 6a to 7c. Close to the sea, climbing in the shadow or in the sun all the day (depending on the side of the gorge you climb) on a perfect rock.

Agio Farago 1

Agio Farago 2

Agio Farago 3

• Plakias (Crete)
  A great huge vertical wall as you has never seen. 25 routes from 6a to 8a.

Plakias

Plakias : Minotravros, 7b+

• ****** Tersanas cave (Crete) ******
  Stayed secret for many years, you understand why when you see what is it exactly. 50m high, 80m wide and 50m deep!!! There is no word to explain how it is unreal, just come and check it out. The biggest cave ever seen!! 20 routes from 6a to 8b.
  

  Tersanas cave : Fani in Ski the shit out of it, 7b

  

  Tersanas cave : Gaetan in Knock out, 8a

  

  Tersanas cave (view from inside…)

Multipitches :

Greece is not the country for multipitches but it has the famous rock of Meteora that must be visited at least once in a climber’s life. There are other places with less multipitches but with amazing view!

• Meteora
  It is a place that every climber should have to go. The amazing towers of conglomerate rock are so beautiful with the monasteries! Very high and impressive the climbing style is special but funny on these stones; there are also a lot of cracks where you will need friends and nuts for protections. At least 20 multipitches (120m to 300m) “well” bolted on “good” rock. From 5a to 7c.

Meteora panorama

Fani in L2 of Action direct, 6c

• Varasova
  A very nice wall above the beach. Limestone rock with very good friction, slabs and vertical wall. 25 sport-climbing routes nearby. 10 multipitches (120m to 500m) from 5a to 7b.
  

  Varasova

• Leonidio
  Big red wall above the valley with incredible rock-friction. (6 multipitches, 250m)
  

  Leonidio

• Symi/Anafi
  Two island with big wall which are worthwhile. (6 multipitches, 250 to 450m).
  

  Anaf

  

  Symi

More pictures :

Tersanas cave, guidebook

Tersanas cave

Photos : Nikos Hadjis mountainguide.gr

Photos : Nikos Hadjis mountainguide.gr

Photos : Nikos Hadjis mountainguide.gr

Gaetan, 05/2013

Gaetan, 05/2013

Gaetan, 05/2013

Fani in L2 of action direct, 6c

Fani in L3 of action direct, 6b

Fani in L1 of action direct, 6a+

The black line, Action direct route

Chaos cliff, Antonis in Tremoulo, 7c+ (photo : facebook.com/PERIKLISPHOTOGRAPHY)

Chaos cliff, Katerina in the warm up route, Delice, 7a+

Daveli cliff above Athens (facebook.com/PERIKLISPHOTOGRAPHY)

Spilia Daveli, Argyro in Kopsi Korre, 7a+

Spilia Daveli, Argyro in Au revoir, 8b+

Spilia Daveli, Argyro in Au revoir, 8b+

I wish to thanks all my greek friends to the warm welcome when I come in Greece : Fani Kousipetkou, Argyro Papathanasiou, Constantinos Vrohidis, Katerina Touriki, Aris Theodoropoulos, Stavros Psirropoulos, Antonis Anifantakis, Periklis Ripis, Victor Sebros and many others !
Thanks to the locals for guiding me to discover all these many crazy new places : Thanasis Sotir, Nikos Hadjis, Giannis Metaxotos, Manolis Kampourakis, Aris Mavromatis

I’ve spent in 2013 spring one month climbing around Athens and I can tell you that it will be in the next year (or months) the place in Europe to climb! You can easily spend 2 weeks there for climbing and visiting (archeological sites and seaside). Around Athens there is more than 1100 routes from 5 to 9a? with 33 cliffs at no more than 1h driving from the center town.

Map of Athens

There is a big concentration of cliffs with a lot of choice with the orientation to allow climbing all year around in the shadow or in the sun. But, the most interesting thing is that almost all these cliffs have a very good rock, mostly the same as Kalymnos! By the way, the advantage of climbing around Athens is that these cliffs are recent (less than 20 years and for the most difficult less than 10 years), so the limestone rock is not polished!

Mavrosouvala_Ades_8a

So, I love this place because it is not crowded, the rock is beautiful and not polished and the routes are awesome! Moreover you are close to Athens if you like visiting and Greek history, it is also close to the sea for the resting day  Here I describe my favorite cliffs for sport climbing from 7a to 8b.

view from Vrachokipos

Since March 2014, the locals have published the first complete Athens climbing guidebook (in English only!). It is incredible the job they did, this guidebook is very precise, very looking-good, with nice pictures and has everything. You can purchase it here : http://www.athensclimbing.com/ and get more inspiration here on Facebook : https://www.facebook.com/AthensClimbingGuide

Athens climbing guidebook

Special thank to Costas, Argyro, Katerina and Antonis for the guidance and hosting, they are awesome people and very good climbers!

My favorite cliffs around Athens :

• Chaos
  An incredible amphitheater, red rock with good friction. High (30m) crimpy wall, three stars routes! My favorite cliff ! The place and the rock has to be visited ! Shadow in the afternoon. 20 routes from 7a to 8c.
  

  Xaos

• Mavrosouvala ***
  THE cliff to climb ! Awesome routes with many tufas in a big overhanging wall. Very quiet valley. Shadow in the morning. 40 routes from 6a to projects.
  

  Mavrosouvala

• Vrachokipos **
  Very nice rock with very good friction and all kind of holds from slopers, crimps to big tufas and pockets. Beautiful quiet place and view to the Elliniko town and to the sea. Sun all the day. 30 routes (30m) from 6a to 7c.
  

  Vrahokipos

• Lelaki *
  Just in front of Vrachokipos this can be perfect for warm days (shadow in the afternoon). Beautifull long wall with pocekts and tufas ! 15 routes from 6a to 8a.
• Iera Odos, sector amphitheatro *
  Perfect for winter (always in the sun), this sector provide very good slightly overhanging routes. 30 routes from 6a to 8a.
• Kakia Thalassa *
  A very 35m long and steep wall with sustained routes. This cliff has also the advantage to be close to the sea. In the shadow in the morning, beach in the afternoon ! 20 routes from 6a to 7c.
• Spilia Daveli ***
  Up on the Pedeli mountain, one of the three mountain (1000m) around Athens. Marble rock (ancient Acropolis stone-pit), not so slippery due to sand-like surface friction. A lot of difficult craks and technical walls. Shadow in the afternoon. 30 routes (30m) from 5c to 8c.
  

  Spilia Daveli

• Magoula **
  A little cliff for good climbers. In a very beautiful gorge there is a overhanging wall with nice tuffas and holes. From 7c to projects.
  

  Magoula

• Platosi **
  Beatifull routes for the level 6. No sun in the middle of the day. From 6a to 7c.
• 902 **
  Nice overhanging with lots of colonettes ! No sun. 10 routes in the level 7.
• Spilia Rousso **
  A very nice and typical Greek rock. Shadow in the afternoon. Routes from 7a to 8c.

More pictures to give the motivation to go to Athens !!

Vrahokipos Gaetan in Afstira 7b+

Katerina at Xouni

Magoula Constantinos in Tap tap 8b+

Mavrosouvala Argyro in super nova 8b

Xaos Katerina in Delice 7a+

Asolo est un fabricant de chaussures 100% Europe, imaginées et conçues en Italie, produites en Roumanie.

Asolo couvre toutes les activités outdoor, hors Trail de l’alpi à la balade, en passant par la marche d’approche, l’escalade sur glace, le trek…etc…Peu de fabricants couvrent autant de pratiques.

Depuis 2012, la marque commercialise la chaussure Eiger GV, parfaite pour la cascade de glace mais aussi pour l’alpinisme (400 euros).

patrick_berthet_02/2013

Je la trouve très légère (1600g la paire) et bien chaude pour ce modèle de chaussure technique (Gore-Tex Duratherm), j’aime bien aussi le fait qu’elle soit fine et qu’elle épouse bien le pied (un véritable avantage pour les ascensions difficiles).

Bronsonière 24/02/2012

J’utilise l’Eiger GV depuis deux ans et je trouve cette chaussure relativement solide pour son domaine d’utilisation.

Pour le haut-niveau en dry-tooling ou en mixte déversant j’utilise depuis cette année le nouveau modèle de la Comp XT Petzl (440 euros).

Trou du jour, D11

C’est une chaussure ultra-légère (1300g la paire avec les crampons) avec une semelle en carbone qui assure une parfaite rigidité indispensable en dry-tooling.

Champagny en Vanoise, 2013

Grace aux nouveaux crampons Petzl D-Lynx spécialement conçu pour le dry-tooling, cette Comp XT Petzl est l’arme absolu !

Asolo est partenaire de plusieurs évènements dans le domaine (DTS Tour, ICE, Gorzderette, coupe du monde, championnat du monde jeune) et aide les grimpeurs de dry-tooling, cascade de glace et escalade suivant :
Simon Duverney
Etienne Grillot
Jessy Pivier
Jonathan Joly
Gaetan Raymond
Equipe nationale FFCAM espoir d’escalade sur glace en compétition

Equipe jeune FFCAM, Champagny

Merci à Asolo pour son soutien et pour continuer à toujours nous proposer mieux !

çà fait un moment que je n’ai pas donné de nouvelles, trop occupé à faire du dry…

Et comme je n’ai toujours pas plus de temps voici un rapide résumé de ce qu’il s’est passé (pensez à cliquer sur les liens pour en savoir plus!)

–          Dimanche 6 octobre : Charbo Contest (Lyon)

Super contest et beaucoup de monde. Deuxième séance de dry pour moi et un premier sommet de podium.

–          Dimanche 13 octobre : Barrio Contest (Haute-Maurienne, Termignon)

Pierrot nous avait encore équipé des nouvelles voies, la voie de finale était géniale. Encore une première place.

–          Dimanche 20 octobre : Sélection de l’équipe élite (+ de 22 ans) d’escalade sur glace en compétition de la FFCAM (Champagny la Vanoise)

Blessé au bras juste avant à cause d’une mauvaise chute en trail une nuit de pleine lune, je me décide au dernier moment d’y participer. Çà tombe bien car je fais désormais parti de l’équipe !

–          Samedi 26 octobre : Première étape du DTS Tour aux Bourettes (05, Dévoluy)

Enfin une étape aux Bourettes qui se déroule au soleil !

–          Samedi 2 novembre : SATI Dry Day, compétition festive de dry (Vercors, Méaudre)

Un super événement encore une fois, l’ambiance était vraiment au top grace à toute l’équipe de la SAT ! Avec Marion on a fait une belle équipe mixte !

–          Samedi 9 novembre : Deuxième étape du DTS Tour à Quintal (Annecy) NOUVELLE FALAISE !!

Quintal c’est LA falaise de dry à la mode de cet hiver 2013/2014 ! Il y avait du monde et la voie de finale a offert du grand spectale.

Un article dans Montagne magazine à ce sujet : http://www.montagnes-magazine.com/actus-mi-chemin-dts-tour-2013-etape-quintal

–          Samedi 16 novembre : Fête du dry au Zoo (Sallanches). Organisée par la DTS Team.

Toujours énormément de monde au Zoo. Avec la DTS team on a concocté des épreuves un peu spéciale (grimpe avec un sac rempli de cailloux, grimpe en basket, concour de lovage de corde, escalade/dé-escalade, dry avec des piolets droits…)

–          Samedi 30 novembre : Troisième et dernière étape du DTS Tour à l’Usine (Grenoble)

C’est toujours l’évènement dry de l’année. Cette année encore plus avec une buvette/restauration, démo de highline et deux nouvelles voies ainsi que des voies originales proposés. La finale de nuit a été le clou de la soirée, éclairée et ambiancée par Petzl.

**Un reportage sur Télégrenoble à ce sujet (à 7min35) : http://dai.ly/x18anag **

–          Samedi 7 et dimanche 8 décembre : Rassemblement au Trou du jour (Suisse, Crans Montana).

Le trou du jour c’est vraiment un site que j’apprécie tout particulièrement pour son coté technique mais il y a un peu tous les styles (avec un peu de glace!). Une vidéo d’Octave pour vous donner un aperçu :

–          Samedi 20 et dimanche 21 décembre : Stage d’entraînement avec l’équipe nationale, tour de glace de Champagny en Vanoise.

Un super weekend qui nous aura permis de reprendre ses marques en grimpe sur structure artificielle. Très bonne entente avec l’équipe espoir, c’était cool de grimper tous ensemble.

–          Samedi 4 janvier : Kandersteg Ice climbing festival, contest de dry (Suisse)

Je n’y suis pas allé pour cause de bras encore douloureux mais PAK a bien représenté la France avec une 4ème place !

–          Samedi 17 janvier : Contest de dry-tooling à l’Ice Climbing Ecrins, Toit des chèvres.

Une découverte pour moi de ce site, bien sympa avec des voies variés de D4 à D10. Pas facile pour reprendre le dry après 3 semaines de convalescence, une 4ème place quand même. Super ambiance encore une fois.

Et pour finir quelques vidéos que j’ai oublié de partager…

**Une présentation du dry-tooling sur Télégrenoble (à 11min50) : http://dai.ly/x15p9dv **

**Une présentation de la cascade de glace et du dry-tooling en direct sur L’Equipe 21 : http://www.lequipe21.fr/emissions/menu-sport/diffusion-16-janvier-7c88df6744ds.html 

Pour la suite c’est les coupes du monde d’escalade sur glace les trois weekend d’affilés :

• Suisse, Saas Fee. 24 et 25 Janvier
• France, Champagny en Vanoise. 31 Janvier et 1er février
• Italie, Rabenstein. 7 et 8 février